Notes about Moving Pianos

This piece is written as an aid to training. Amateur movers should regard the information here as reasons not to attempt piano movements. Basic knowledge of lifting techniques may only encourage severe harm to assistants, yourself, and least of all...the piano.

The piano is not only heavy and unwieldy, but has polished and vulnerable surfaces to protect. Grand pianos have legs which are designed as stands, and they should be jacked up with proper tools - just to be moved across a room. Even upright pianos, which may be very heavy, typically suffer from failed castors. I wonder what percentage of the pianos moved actually do have a full set of working castors?... not many!

Upright Pianos

Some are small and light, whilst some, notably older pianos, are like grand pianos sitting upright. The weight and size of upright pianos can vary from less than 200kgs to over 400kgs.

Every moving job has hurdles: The easiest are turns, steps, and gradients, but these hurdles can become real challenges when staircases - especially with tight turns, are involved. A piano can be easily hauled up stairs with the right equipment. A straight set of stairs can be overcome with no more than a suitable length of plank and good strapping... Heavy slippery plastic sheet can help.

However often, there will be an inconvenient turn on the stairs, and this may require that the piano is overturned up to 90 degrees onto its side.

Ideally a piano skid should be used. It is like a sledge to which the piano can be strapped. The skid not only provides a running surface to slide on, but holes through which to attach strapping. A piano at 45 degrees on the stairs offers almost no points to pull up on, but a skid with strapping points at the centre of gravity - in the middle of the skid - can help two men pulling and one pushing beneath , to pull a piano both up the stairs and also to up-angle it to turn a tight corner. When carefully tied tight to the skid with ratchet straps there will be full control and confidence that the piano will not topple backwards.

When straight stairs are encountered, a skid allows 2 men to do the work of three... A piano will slide up (or down) with ease control and safety... But please note that I built my own skid with slippery nylon runners!

Grand and Baby Grand Pianos. You will need:
1) A piano shoe with two blocks,
A piano shoe is a wooden frame made in various lengths to fit different sizes of piano. It has padding, strap holes and straps to secure it to the piano, and provide a surface to move on.
2) A piano trolley,
3) Suitable strapping,
4) Suitable protective wraps,
5) A rubber mallet and screwdrivers.

If you are using a moving truck, it will require room to work inside and a straight wall with good strapping points...Think about the wheel arch covers featured in small vans... and their lack of strapping points.

Handling requires at least two (very strong) or three good men... and thats if the going is easy.

If you are moving a grand or baby grand piano: The piece will have to be lowered flat onto it's long straight side.
The process may start by removing the lid... If the lid overhangs the straight side of the piano, the piano's weight may tear the lid's screws from their threads. You will also reduce the weight by removing the lid, and make the piece easier to handle. It will also be possible to run a strap through the flat side of the piano and round both the skid and trolley for secure movement.
The lid must be then wrapped in suitable blankets or covers.

With the lid removed, a suitable sized piano shoe is strapped to the left (straight) side of the piece, and then whilst supporting the weight - preferably with a purpose made piano stand, the front left leg and the lyre ( the foot pedal assembly) is removed (in some pneumatic mechanisms you may need to raise and support the left corner by 6 inches in order to drop the lyre). That done, the piece can then be lowered or kneeled over. It is like an elephant kneeling... with the back, and front right leg still in place. Piano shoes are built so that the front left corner - by the keyboard - is protected. This is the corner that will meet the ground first.

Sometimes a piano skid is used. This is like a sledge, and is placed on the floor so the flat side of the piano can be lowered onto it. Adequate cushioning is essential to protect the fine surface of the piano.

what is the difference between a skid and a shoe?

A shoe is an old fashioned tool which is strapped to the side of a grand piano before it is lowered. It is a frame made of wood with cushioning and strap holes, and strapping attached. Its main purpose is to protect the polished surface of a pianos straight edge..

A skid is slightly more general purpose... For example it might be useful for moving a heavy safe. An upright or grand piano could be placed and strapped onto it, and it is probably designed with runners or wheels to allow movement. It may be a metal frame with a padded wooden board bolted on. It can be slid up and down stairs.

The skid should be placed onto eight inch high blocks to reduce the back breaking weight of lowering a (grand) piano right to the floor...This will allow the trolley (around eight inches high) to be placed more easily underneath the skid, between the blocks.
Determining the exact angle at which to place the skid is a matter of some experience. Plenty of padding is recommended.

The piano can now be moved all the way over to sit flat on it's straight side, and The other two legs can now be removed. The various makers have their own methods of securing the legs.. Use the mallet to tap towards the wooden locking wedge. If it does not move, take time to look and think... The answer will not be force, but it may be a 90 degree rotation.

A feature of the shoe or skid is that there is some strapping handles to lift it - together with the piano - so the trolley can be wheeled underneath. The trolley is a purpose made piece of equipment. Typically, it might be an approximately 2 foot long by 14 inches wide, heavy aluminium frame which incorporates 2 steel axles (and 4 rubber mounted wheels in total).

The piano must now be strapped to the shoe / skid, and covers applied.

The piano / shoe and trolley should be tenderly ratchet strapped to the shoe if there are any steps or obstacles which may separate the two. The tension should be just so that all moves as one, but without exerting unnecessary tension on the piano. In practice, it is better to take the time to always take this precaution.

All movements should be conducted with a 'hug'... The moving team should always connect shoulders and weight to the piece at all times so as to correct any loss of balance before, and not after it becomes exaggerated.

Obstacles such as steps or curb stones are always approached squarely with 2 wheels and never at an angle.

On the van : Strap the piano with at least one end on the front bulkhead, so breaking force does not work on the strapping.
Ratchet straps are not recommended on van wall strapping bars... They can apply enough pressure to damage the wall of the van, and the metal parts can scratch a polished surface... But very tenderly applied, they are preferable to amateur or ineffective 'knots'. Professional mover's web straps are the right solution since they are strong and tie up right...Tight and secure at hand pressure.
There must be no movement at all, since the piano will try to work itself loose in transit.

This article is intended as introductory reading for new staff. It in no way amounts to full instruction for the trade of piano moving.

You can find photos of a piano skid, and piano trolley in use at http://www.student-movers-forum.com/SW-Removals.html

You can find a technical drawing of a piano skid at http://www.student-movers-forum.com/piano_skid.html

Stephen Willett Removals move pianos in South London, Uk.

http://www.swremovals.co.uk

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Motorcycle Riding Tips - Limited-Space Maneuvers

With Spring fast approaching I thought it would be a good idea to start publishing a few motorcycle riding tips that you can practice once you dust off your bike and get it ready for Daytona Bike week or your first spring ride. One thing I hear from a lot of motorcyclists is that they have been riding for some many years and do not need to practice any riding skills. This is just an ignorant statement to make and often fueled by ego and pride. I have seen veteran riders of twenty years; do the stupidest things on a motorcycle. Sure they have been riding for twenty years, but have they truly ever learned to really ride correctly with skill and confidence. Sure some have the natural motor skills to perform well on a motorcycle but these refresher tips are there to make you more competent on your motorcycle while also boosting your ego since others will be impressed by your riding skills. Honest, you will be amazed how people notice a good competent rider.

This lesson will discuss Limited-space maneuvers. Now you may think, what? If I am going slow in a parking lot or driveway, why do I need to practice these types of motorcycle riding maneuvers? While not as dangerous as intersections or other road hazards, limited-space maneuvers, like parking areas, can be quite a challenge. Practice turning at low speeds, and do not forget to use the counterweight technique to help balance your motorcycle at slow speeds. This means to put more pressure on the outmost footrest, leaning the upper body outward opposite the turn. You can also move off the center of the seat, opposite from the turn, to improve balance and turning capability.

The best-trained motorcyclists are Police Motormen. These motorcycle cops are trained to maneuver large police motorcycles at slow speeds in tight situations. Police Motormen practice doing U-turns within two marked parking spaces. Sounds easy right? Well it is not. Go out and try it one day. I guarantee it will take you 4 spaces or more to do a U-turn. Odds are some of you may even drop your bike. The trick is to use your clutch friction zone and rear brake to get the motorcycle to maneuver and handle at very slow speeds. By slow speeds I mean under 5MPH. Walking pace. Police need to do this all the time and they have the best riding techniques. The other key is to look where you want the motorcycle to go. If you look down while performing a tight figure eight or a U-turn, I guarantee you will go where you are looking down.

I initially practiced these techniques and was amazed at how difficult it was to turn your motorcycle around by performing a U-turn while trying to keep the turn within two parking spaces. It took me several hours over a few days to get the hang of it. Next I added in figure eights and slow crawl riding as if I were in a parade. As my skill improved with this technique and my rear brake and clutch were showing signs of wear, I become very confident that I could handle my motorcycle in tight situations.

The benefits of practicing this riding technique are that you become more skilled with handling your motorcycle. If you find you are on a narrow country road, you will have the confidence to know that you can safely and skillfully perform a U-turn in the limited space provided. While attending motorcycle events where parking is at a premium, this slow speed practice will help you maneuver threw the crowded parking lot without smashing into and pedestrians or parked motorcycles. Again, I found myself using this skill set a lot. Other motorcyclists noticed my skill. They were amazed that I could maneuver a large Victory Kingpin in the limited spaces. Even when carrying a passenger. So dust off your motorcycle and dust of your stale riding techniques and hit the nearest vacant parking lot for some much needed practice.

Here are some tips for parking safely:

- If parking in a parallel parking space next to a curb, position the motorcycle at an angle with the rear wheel to the curb.
- If using the side stand, turn the handlebars to the left for added stability; lock the forks for security.
- The feet on sides and center stands can sink into soft surfaces causing the motorcycle to fall. To prevent this, carry a flattened aluminum can or similar rigid object to put under the stand.
- Park the motorcycle in first gear for extra stability, particularly if on an incline.

Contributing author to the Victory Custom shop -- Cycle Solutions http://www.CycleSolutions.net and the Victory Kingpin Cruiser Enthusiast site http://www.KingpinCruisers.net

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The Butterfly Effect - A Look At Vertical Doors

How about something remarkable. Something never before experienced by most drivers. Something that makes waves. How about the butterfly effect?

Butterfly doors, also known as vertical door or lambo doors, originated to solve a problem. The Lamborghini had a very wide base, and a traditional door design would not allow for easy entering and exiting, especially if parked next to anything. They devised a door hinge system that lifts the doors vertically, and only slightly out war, clearing the door of the opening, and also allowing the wide body car to still fit in traditional spaces.

These doors catch a lot of attention. When door open vertically, you get the "butterfly" effect, making waves wherever you are. People stop and notice these types of modifications because they are rare, unique, and very appealing. These kits are now available for most cars, and come as a universal kit that can be fitted to almost any vehicle. Some of the kits will require a little body work, but others are a direct bolt in. The hinges, gas shocks, and hardware may not look like $750 to $1000 worth of materials, but the finished results is well worth the money for most car enthusiasts and tuners.

We suggest professional installation for these types of kits, mainly because in a lot of cases, the inner fender wells need to be rolled or modified to fit the new brackets and hinges. Most of the kits are adjustable enough to create a unique vertical opening while keeping it fairly easy to get in and out of the vehicle. Look for kits that allow for both vertical and horizontal adjustments to be made for the best possible combination of style and comfort.

Butterfly doors are becoming the craze at most tuner events and shows. Some cars look better than other with the mods done to them, and you can probably find images of your car model with them installed somewhere on the internet. I would suggest seeing a finished product before investing the money. The kits are in most cases completely reversible if you are unsatisfied for any reason, or intend to sell the car at a future date.

If you want to turn you ride into a real showstopper, these kits are the way to go. They come in manual and automatic varieties. Vertical doors are a great addition to any show car. Vertical Doors, Inc. is credited with the patent on the design we are most familiar with. There have been several company create similar products marketed under the product "type" called vertical doors. They are also referred to as butterfly doors, or 90 degree doors. Either way, they give our daily drivers a nice exotic sports car look.

There are some varieties of doors out there that will fit the bill if you are looking for that extra something to add to your show car. There are the traditional "vertical" doors which open vertically. See picture below. These kits use specially made brackets and gas shocks to open the doors outward slightly, then upwards. They can be adjusted to open further our before going up to make it easier to get in and out of, as a common disadvantage to the door kits is the increased difficulty of getting in and out of the vehicle.

There are other types of door modifications that can be done, such as "suicide" doors that open exactly the opposite of traditional doors. The hinges are moved to the other side of the door opening so it swings the other way. Also a cool upgrade.

Still my personal favorite is the Dalorian style door as seen in back to the future. These doors are hinged in the center of the roof, and raise straight up allowing for easy access in and out of the vehicle. This type of modification would call for some extensive mods to the roof system, as well as some fabricated doors, but it would make for a serious upgrade!

If you are interested in trying to install your own vertical door conversion kits, be warned, it can be tricky, but here is a guide to help you in the process.

1. Lift the hood and remove left and right shield of front wheel.

2. With the door open pull out the rubber hose connecting the door and the door frame, draw out and cut the wire (wrap the two ends of every cut wires with friction tape and record the given numbers. If the wires are long enough, it s not necessary to cut.) and then remove the rubber hose of the wires.

3. With door closed remove the factory top door hinge.

4. Test and draw the placement of the mechanism. Pay attention to the moving way of the swing arm and ensure the swing arm up to 90 not to touch the shield or fender. So the mechanism must be in a proper height, which can be tested by the shield.

5. Grind the installation placement of the chassis or hammer any extrusions that may hinder the base plates from sitting flat. You may also grind and cut the base plate and door plate as needed.

B. After grinding the installation placement, test the proper distance with the shield and check and observe any places that may prevent the base plate and the swing arm from moving. In this situation you must draw a line around the base plate when it is in the proper, and then cut or hammer along the perimeter till not to hinder.

C. In cars with small spaces between the chassis surface and the fender there will not be sufficient room to install. It can be solved as follows: with the position of the base plate determined, draw a line around the base plate when it is in the proper position, and then cut along the perimeter to allow the base plate to slide below the surface.

6. Determine the holding position and space. Draw the position of the safety arch on the base plate and cut it. Cut a slot in the chassis to accommodate the arch, and if the base plate is below the chassis surface for your application make additional space for adjustment with a hex key.

7. Next you should cover the base plate, door, and the rest parts of the door mechanism in welding deflection paper with the exception of the surface of the surface that will get welded for the surface protection.

8. When the door mechanism clings to the chassis, door place, and moves smoothly and is proper in both horizontal and vertical direction after testing again, weld spots around the perimeter of the base plate and the door plate. When you feel the welds are sturdy enough, remove the down door hinge. You may observe and test whether the door is in the correct motion and position by swinging it out and up manually. Now you can make adjustments at the door outward motion screws, safety set screw and door height screws etc. on the door mechanism.

9. Determine and draw on the shield or fender the position space of the swing arms motion and cut it. Test it again and cut the inner lip to provide clearance for the swing arm.

10. Once you are satisfied with the operation and placement like opening, closing, lifting and falling of the door and door mechanism, hammer the hinge center axis of the mechanism from top to bottom and then remove the door. Make a strong weld around the entire perimeter of the base plate and door plate. (Parts must be prevented from broiling of the high temperature while welding.)

11. Grind and scuff the welds surface and mask the undercoat paint and top coating to prevent rust.

12. Lube the moving surfaces of the door mechanism with heavy waterproof grease and then close the door, align the hinge holes and interpose the center axis to the holes form top to bottom and then hammer it well and smoothly.

13. When the door is open up to the maximum angle, clear up the wires. Measure the wires and connect to the required length with other wires if it is not long enough. Remember to connect with the numbers while cutting and to mask the joints with the insulation tapes. With the wires plaited into cluster, fixed at the bottom of the swing arm with plastic and string.

14. Open the door and rotate it to the highest point, screw two ball joints into the swing arm and gas spring connecting plot respectively with gas spring screws and then determine and mark the spot where the ball joint will get mounted on the chassis.

15. Put the door down for now and disconnect the gas spring ball screw form the gas spring connecting plot and then hammer or grind the fixed position of the connecting plot and weld it well on the fixed place. Paint for dust prevention.

16. Open the door to the highest point and screw the gas spring ball points into the connecting plot and lock the ball points on the swing arm tightly at the same time. And test the doors motion. The swing arm should be parallel and not interferes with the gas spring or other parts when the door moves up and down.

17. With the door closed, test the doors horizontal motion until the door is aligned with the latch and closes perfectly. Adjust the safety arch until the door mechanism no longer interferes with the shield or fender when the door out all the way horizontally. Then set the horizontal motion screws to correspond with the angle that the safety arch rubs the inside of the lifting arm when up. The closer you make these two adjustments, the more sturdy the door will feel going up and resting in the vertical position. Set the vertical height limiter adjustment as high as you wish provided that the door does not hit the shield or other parts.

18. If the door panel and/or door metal hits the shield or comes too close to the shield on the way up it must be cut. If the door panel must be cut first mark a line that will allow clearance. Then peel back the upholstery, make the cut and wrap the upholstery over the new edge with spray adhesive.

19. Test it again until no any hinder and satisfied with everything; seal the screw adhesive to all the screw points.

20. Mount the shield, fender etc. and put down the hood. This will complete the installation.

Good luck and stay TUNED!

Majestic Modifications is the complete car customization concept, specializing in auto accessories, air intakes and performance upgrades, body kits and vertical doors, glow gauges and interior accessories, wheels and tires, mobile video and electronics.

For more info, visit the Vertical Lambo Doors Blog.

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